You don't usually hear/see the words henna and simple (or any derivation of the word) in the same sentence. Most henna treatments for hair conjure up images of complexity. So many times when I read about people trying henna, it is in the sense of
finally trying after much nervousness. I am not alone, then. Henna makes me nervous for some reasons, too. The main concerns are (1) curl loosening (2) final color and (3) the rinsing process. I will address all three of these concerns when I discuss below just how simple henna can be.
When using a henna paste to color and/or condition the hair, you really only need two ingredients. That's right two. The first is the henna powder itself, of course. When in the market for a henna powder,
always use body art quality (BAQ) henna. Further considerations include a fine sift (for easier rinsing) and an organic crop. I myself plan to invest in an organic fine sift. I most dread the idea of rinsing for ages and ages. So fine sift is the must have henna powder for me. The second ingredient is an acid, and by acid I mean any number of things that can do, but you only need one. The acid ingredient ensures dye release. The same chemical (lawsone) in the henna that colors the hair is also what conditions it. And really, those are the only two things you need. Henna powder and acid. Simple, right? Not quite. With options, can come confusion. Which acid should I use and why? What are the benefits of each? Here are my considerations.
- Lemon (or Orange) Juice - lemon juice is definitely acidic, but can be very drying to the hair. So this option is a no-no for me or any other curly avoiding any product that could dry the hair.
- Apple Cider Vinegar - a cheap option. I definitely always have it in stock since I ACV rinse (sporadically). But this too can be a bit drying on the hair. On to the next.
- Green Tea - Hmm. I also always have this in stock and have read that it can make for a less drying henna paste. Definitely less drying than lemon juice. This option stays in the contender pool.
- Coconut Milk - I love ALL things coconut for my hair, and coconut milk makes for easy, breezy rinsing. So I have read, but this makes sense since coconut milk is very runny. I know from experience. This acidic liquid also stays in the contender pool.
- Amla - Although not a liquid, amla powder and water can be added for dye release. Amla tones down the red color and also recommended for those curlies concerned about curl loosening.
With me, the top two contenders are green tea and coconut milk. Green tea seems a good all around acid to add. Coconut milk sounds quite tempting, mainly for the easier rinsing it most likely will guarantee. But one thing should be noted about coconut milk. Coconut milk itself can loosen the curl pattern. For that reason, I'm thinking henna powder and coconut milk could be a one-two punch of major curl loosening. If you want that, fine. But if, like me, it makes you nervous, then henna'er beware. In the end, I will most likely go with green tea. If my first experience with henna leaves me with a curl loosening that I hate (after all, the curl loosening is not guaranteed, only probable), then I will start using amla. If I notice no curl loosening, or not enough to make me care, then I will consider using coconut milk for easier rinsing. And there you have it. Another thing, you have to
make green tea. With coconut milk, all you have to do is pop open a can and stir it up.
One more thing. Even though the only things you NEED are henna powder and an acid, I know many henna mixes include honey and oils. Most likely for more moisture and easier rinsing. I myself will use honey and oils in my henna, added after the powder and acid paste have been allowed time to dye release. The oils will most likely be castor and/or olive. But who knows for sure. With that being said, my first henna mix, without measurements, appears to be the following recipe:
- Organic, Fine Sift Henna Powder
- Green Tea
- Honey
- Castor and/or Olive Oil
Another thing to note. I have NO PLANS of sleeping with my henna in my hair overnight. I am a wild sleeper, and I dread the idea of waking up with henna all over the covers. Talk about a disaster.
Concerned about color. Some henna vendors describe what kind of color you can expect. Also, mixing henna with other powder such as indigo, cocoa powder, or cassia can tone down the color significantly. The results are too numerous to describe, so research for yourself. I would recommend the
Mehandi website.