Natural Hair Inspiration Spotlight

Dear Readers,
Although I have a tab above entitled inspiration that features natural hair celebrities whose hair inspires me, I was just so inclined to give this particular naturally curly woman her own blog post. For one, her hair is just gawwww-geous. Secondly, she's not a celebrity, perhaps just a model, that I am familiar with. I don't know her name. But anyway, this picture was sent to me from my sister Miss Cee C after she saw it on the fashion blog thesartorialist.com. And although she sent me two pictures of women rocking natural hair, I fell in love with this one. I don't know what it is, but I have a feeling it has a lot to do with the bangs. Any way, here's the pic.



Until next time...

Wash and Go's On the Shelf

WnG's were my staple style for quite some time. I love natural curl pattern I have, so I would rock them almost every day of the week without fail. But that was when I had less hair, and less tangles. Now that I have more hair, and am prone to more tangles, and am learning/remembering how prone to breakage my hair really is, I am putting wash-n-go's on the shelf, for now.



When will I take them off the shelf? My plan is to wait until my hair is long enough to pineapple at night. That way, my hair will not be as prone to tangles throughout the day. Also, I am refocusing on protein/moisture balance. Right now, my hair is too much on the side of moisture. I need some protein. Lord, give me strength. (Pun intended). So, wash and go's are on the shelf. Currently on the lookout for a stretching routine. Stay posted for more deets.

In other news per my hair routine, rocking the headwraps has been fun, but the result some days has been a very itchy scalp. I don't know if my hair is telling me it needs air in order to not itch as much or what. But when your hair tries to tell you something, listen. So I am reevaluating my head wrap routine.

Well, wish me well. Smooches!

Coconut Milk, Honey, Oils, and Deep Treatments (A Long Post)

I love coconut milk hair soaks. They're a cheap light protein treatment, and I definitely notice less shed hairs after a good coconut milk soak. I have only a couple of caveats with coconut milk. The first is the smell, like baby formula. But its nothing unbearable, so I suck it up and move on. The second is that coconut milk does not last long in the fridge. What is a natural to do with leftover coconut milk? I don't know why I had not thought of this earlier, but why not freeze it? And furthermore, freeze it in ice trays so that I can have coconut milk cubes waiting in the freezer whenever I need them. That way, depending on how much I need, I can just melt a few cubes and save the rest for later. So smart, so convenient.



In other news, I am back to using honey. In spite of wanting to switch over to maple syrup as a vegan friendly honey-like humectant, I am back to using what is easier to find. Also, I miss using Oyin Handmade Honey Hemp Conditioner. Next time I order from them, I will definitely be using their conditioner as my primary leave-in. Unfortunately, Giovanni has gone from Organic Technology to Eco Chic Technology (whatever that means) and has switched around the ingredients. So goodbye to Giovanni Direct Leave-In as my major leave-in. I will be getting reacquainted with OHHH.

On to the next...I am revisiting which oils I use and why. I have a bit too many for my liking, so I decided to pair down to what I have used that has garnered the best results. And the winners are:

• Castor Oil - a nice heavy oil that is touted for its hair thickening properties. It's also a great non-butter sealant. I also use it for oil cleansing on my face (with equal part jojoba oil) and as an oil rinse for my hair (with equal part olive oil).
• Olive Oil - an all around, easy to find natural oil that penetrates the hair shaft and adds major sheen to the hair. I use it in my oil rinses with castor oil. In a pinch, I would use it for oil cleansing my face. (Jojoba oil is not the cheapest).
• Jojoba Oil - I love this oil more than I would like, because it is not cheap. But the light feel is just what I like when I want a non-heavy oil to seal my hair. It is also great for the scalp. I have been using this mixed with an equal part castor oil for my oil cleansing and for sealing my hair when styling. I also use this oil for moisturizing my face and body. Fortunately, a little goes a long way in that regard. But again, this oil is not cheap. Anyway, I am most likely about to go ahead and buy a large bottle of it for Aura Cacia or NOW Foods.
• Coconut Oil - The king daddy of natural oils. This strengthening oil deeply penetrates the hair shaft. It is a great pre-poo treatment. It acts as a natural sunscreen for the hair and skin. It is pretty economical when buying online (esp. from VitaCost). And most importantly, it smells great. Much better than olive oil and castor oil. (Jojoba oil doesnt really have a smell).
• A splurge oil that I have not ever used but have heard good things about and would like to try is argan oil (aka Moroccan oil). I most likely will mix it with castor and/or jojoba oils to stretch it out. My place of purchase will most likely be Amazon. The ratio I have in mind is 2 parts castor oil, 1 part jojoba oil, and 1 part argan oil. This will be my oil based moisturizer of choice.
• Essential Oils- All the oils listed above are carrier oils that can be applied directly to the skin, hair, and scalp. When it comes to essential oils, which must be diluted in a carrier oil or another liquid, my only EO of choice is tea tree essential oil. It is a natural preservative that I add to mixes I make that have aloe vera juice or water. It is a great antiseptic good for breakouts. I need to mix another batch of toner for the face, which includes tea tree essential oil, ACV, and chamomile/green tea. Another great antiseptic EO is lavender essential oil.

Whew. Last topic of the day is deep treatments. I have used only one store bought deep treatment worth writing home about and that was the Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Deep Treatment Masque. In the end, the smell was a bit off to me and I preferred to use it as a styler. I may repurchase. Currently, I am using the SH Curl Enhancing Smoothie as a styler. For deep conditioning, I will return to using homemade mixes: a good store bought cheapie conditioner as the base (Yes to Cucumbers, Yes to Carrots, or Aussie Moist) with additions will be nice. And what do you think the additions will be? You guessed it...honey, oils, and maybe coconut milk. Honey for the humectant qualities, oils for the conditioning properties, coconut milk for the light protein qualities. The ratio has yet to be decided, but here is a link to a deep conditioning mix from the College Curlies/Fabulous and Frugal blog.

That is all. Until next time.

Hair Regimen Updates: Smart Things I've Been Doing to My Mane Lately

Well, in response to this hard, hard water I have been using on my hair, I have changed some things around in my hair care regimen. Today was a Wash Day. (I try to get it done on Friday, but Friday becomes Saturday and then I end up washing on Sunday. LOL). With LSAT studying, life has been somewhat busier. Not very stressful. But anwho, I have decided to share some smart things I have been doing to keep my tresses in tip top shape.

1. Washing With Distilled Water: I have been managing to go through one large bottle a wash. But this is more water conscious then when I get in the shower and let the water run, run, run. I have been very savvy by using a spritz bottle to make my hair wet rather than running it under a faucet or shower stream.
2. Washing/Conditioning Hair in the Mirror: This ensures that I get every part of my hair well washed and well conditioned. When I washed in the shower or in the sink, I would come out and look in the mirror only to discover that my entire mane was not covered with product.
3. Applying Leave-Ins and Moisturizers to Every Part of My Hair: This has led to consistently moisturized hair that looks great and feels uber soft to the touch.
4. Using Three Levels of Moisture: Per Chicoro's recommendations, I now moisturize with a water/aloe based moisturizer, an oil based moisturizer, and a cream based moisturizer. The oil is usually coconut or olive, the cream based moisturizer is usually Shea Moisture Coconut Hibiscus Curl and Style Milk or Oyin Handmade Hair Dew. My hair has never felt this moisturized for this long. Speaking of water/aloe based moisturizer...
5. Using a Water/Aloe Spritz on My Hair: Nothing fancy, just about equal parts of aloe vera juice and distilled water with several drops of tea tree essential oil. I may also add jojoba oil if I feel like it. This spray applied right before I get in the shower leads to very moisturized, very soft hair that looks full bodied.
6. Finger Detangling: I have stepped away from the comb. I don't even use a comb to part my hair. Finger detangling has saved many a would be broken strand. My only regret is that I didn't use this method all along.

When You Want Shrinkage

Huey Freeman of the Adult Swim cartoon The Boondocks

I seem to constantly read articles about how naturals are trying to fight their shrinkage, but how do you do the opposite. That is, how do you make your hair shrink when you want it to. Every week, when I take down my two strand twists, my hair is left in a stretched out state that I just hate. The ends looks sparse, and I don't see any true curl (my natural curl pattern) in sight. So what do I do? I use the correct tools and methods to make shrinkage happen for me.

If it is going to be a humid/rainy day, usually a mist of a humectant spray and a walk out the door will lead to my hair slowly but surely shrinking throughout the day. When I am not sure of the weather, or if I want the shrinkage ASAP, I will do the following:

1. Spray my hair with a homemade moisturizing spray (approximately equal parts of aloe vera juice and bottle water - you can use less aloe - and several drops of tea tree essential oil). Really saturate the hair.
2. Hop in the shower with hair uncovered and let the steam shrink hair. By the time I get out the shower, my hair is much poofier and looks so moisturized and feels so so soft. The aloe vera juice-water mixture works better at attracting the shower's moisture even better than my OH Juices and Berries.
3. Seal in the moisture with an oil and cream based moisturizer.

Random Pic Above: Today someone told me they like my Boondocks afro. It made me think of how Huey Freeman from the Boondocks is actually a natural hair inspiration of mine. How funny.

Length Comparison (Before: May 2010, After: August 2011) and Hair Length Goal

I seem to forget just how short I cut my hair back in May 2010 when I said farewell to my four year old locs. When I see how long my natural friend's hair is, I have take a deep breath, relax, and realize that my hair is 1) growing just fine and 2) retaining length just fine. I have only felt the need to trim once since I BC'd. This morning, I took a picture of my hair to do a length comparison. Note, I take pictures of my hair in its fully shrunken state, because I measure my length when its curly since I have no plans of straightening my hair. (Random Fact: I realized that I have not worn straight hair since middle school. That is a long time.)

May 2010, the very day I cut my hair.

August 2011 (today)

More Details on the Hair, which I washed Saturday AM:

Washed with Shea Moisture African Black Soap Shampoo

Conditioned with Aussie Moist Conditioner

Leave-In: Shea Moisture Yucca and Baobab Conditioner

This Morning Routine

Water Based Moisturizer: Darcy's Botanicals Herbal Leave-In Spray

Oil Based Moisturizer: extra virgin olive oil

Cream Based Moisturizer: Shea Moisture Coconut and Hibiscus Conditioning Milk

There is a new Tumblr I discovered, at least new for me, by the name of F*ck Yeah Curls Curls Curls. I don't like the name too much, the only reason I won't put it in my blog list. Other than that, the tumblr is great and features pictures of beautiful curly hair. They seem to love posting pictures of Nikisha from Urban Bush Babes. Understandable, since she does have beautiful curly hair. Anywho, I decided to get a picture from their tumblr to describe my hair length goal. My goal is shoulder length to collar bone length unstretched, like a bob on the longer side. By that point, I may start trimming for the sake of maintaining that length. Here is a picture of what I mean: 

Source

Like one commentor for this picture said, "I want to snap my fingers and have my hair be this big." My sentiments exactly. But I am no wizard, so I will just have to wait and enjoy the length I have in the meantime. Although the color is not something I would ever go for and the texture is not mine (At least I don't think since your curls loosen as your hair gets longer, so I don't know what my hair will look like exactly, at the above length), her length is just right for what I have in mind with growing out my natural hair.

Not On These Curls

Many a natural has done it. Seen a bomb, fierce hairstyle on someone else's hair and immediately envisioned the great look that would come if you tried it yourself. Well, I still do that from time, and every time I am sorely dissappointed. Where do I begin? Let's talk MY HAIR.

I love my hair, but not without annoyances. The inconsistency that comes from every head is about the only consistent thing about being natural. Mapquest anyone? On the side of my head, near the front, right above my ears, my strand density (the number of strands per inch) is low. The twists come out thin and not thick looking at all. On the top of my head, near the front, the strand density is super high and curls are uber tight. If I make the twists too big, or even the same size as the ones near my ear, they won't stay together. The hair in the back, aka the kitchen, is not the tightest, contrary to what a kitchen is thought of. Guess what? It's the loosest! So when I twist my hair, unless they are small twists, they can look all kinds of crazy on my hair. [Sigh.] Ultimately, the only hair style I still love is a wash-n-go. But wash and go's, after a certain length, lead to tangles galore. Tangles can lead to fairy knots, and I myself abhor those things.

So what is a natural to do. Locking was not this difficult. All you did was wait for hair to grow, after the locs had matured. Now, I am constantly trying new hairstyles hoping to find a go-to style that is 1) protective, 2) quick and easy. But I always return to my wash and go. Which by the way, has become more of a wash, set, and go. I don't set my hair with gel, but I have resorted to taking more time to make sure product (such as leave-in conditioner and oils) makes it to every part of my hair. [Sigh]. Just venting. Pray my natural strength in the Lord.

Oh yeah, I am still loving wearing head scarves. So now, hair wrap, head coverings, and twist updo's are my three go-to styles. Everything else, not on these curls.

Butters-n-Bars.com Makeover

Out of curiosity, I put the url for Butters-n-Bars into my search engine. I hadn't been to the website in quite a while, and have always resolved to order shea butter, cocooa butter, and/or mango butter from them if and when I order butters online. They also sell natural carrier oils and ayurvedic herbs and oils. Imagine my surprise when I see that Butters-n-Bars.com has undergone a major makeover. Not only is the website much nicer than when I last visited, but there are even more great products for purchase. For instance, they now well organic conditioners, including Desert Essence and Giovanni. I have had good experiences with both these conditioners, especially the Giovanni. They also sell virgin coconut oil, hempseed oil, and other carrier oils, making it a great one stop shopping location.

The only caveat is that their products are not sold at the cheapest I have seen online. VitaCost, for instance, sells Desert Essence and Giovanni conditioners at reduced prices as well as organic virgin coconut oil at very, very economical prices. But if only for the shea butter, ayurvedic herbs and oil, and deep treatment mud masques for the hair, I just may add Butters-n-Bars to my list of online retailers for natural hair and skin care products.

Got Dry, Itchy Scalp? Check Out My New Favorite Shampoo

Didn't I say I wasn't trying any new hair products for a while? Well, I don't know why you all believe me anyway. Anywho, the new product of choice came from a tried and true brand, so I didn't feel as guilty purchasing from them. None other than Shea Moisture. After reading the description for this shampoo formulated for dry, itchy scalp, I purchased the Shea Moisture African Black Soap shampoo.

My scalp, specifically the back area, can get really itchy. One remedy for this problem has been more frequent washings. I went from co-washing every week and shampooing only once a month, to shampooing every week, with good old detergent shampoo. The results were immediate. My scalp was instantly more relieved. Now I have noticed the back area can get a bit itchy, and I think I know the root cause/culprit. But that will be another post. I decided to try the Shea Moisture African Black Soap Shampoo. My assessment is just this. WOW. This shampoo really did leave my entire scalp completely itch-free. And it left my hair remarkably, unbelievably soft. I was in love. I followed up with an oil rinse with equal parts castor and olive oils. I then conditioned with Aussie Moist Conditioner. After a cool water rinse, my lovely sister Miss Cee C styled my hair is small/medium size two strand twists using the Shea Moisture Coconut and Hibiscus Styling Milk. I have since been alternating between twist updos and headwraps.

I know some have said the smell of the African Black Soap line leaves much to be desired, but it does not bother me any. Smell is such a toss up. Some people love the smell of flowers, others hate it. To each natural, her own. I would describe the smell as oddly sweet, but not unpleasant, not to me. 

Shea Moisture has yet to let me down. I love this brand!

Vegetable Glycerine for the Skin

Sometimes, I get so caught in my hair regimen, that I will forget to (re)evaluate my skin care regimen. A little known fact about me is that I hate the feel of lotion on my skin. Most lotions (with the exception of the expensive Curel brand) seem to make my skin feel clogged up and dirty. I often skin the lotion step altogether. Most times I just use oils to moisturize my skin. Recently, I read of a woman who used coconut oil and vegetable glycerine as moisturizer for her skin. I can vouch for coconut oil. The only time I have use VG for my skin was on my hands, and I remember it making my skin very supple and moisturized. I have been thinking of using a 50:50 mix of VG and an oil for my skin care. VG is hypoallergenic and has antibacterial qualities. Here is a link to the many benefits of VG, and you can decide for yourself if it will be a good addition to your skin care regimen.

Top Three Product Lines...Back to Basics

With my "back to what works best" for natural hair care, I have realized that I have three, only three, hair care lines that I use consistently. Meaning I have bought and rebought these products for the past six months to a year or more. These product lines are [drumroll please]...

• Shea Moisture
• Giovanni
• Yes to Carrots

Shea Moisture has great products for naturally curly hair; furthermore, their ingredients are very nice, all natural, no animal testing, no animal products, and they are the only line that I am currently using that I use their shampoo and conditioner, as well as the moisture mists. I have even tried some deep treatments from their lines. The smells of each product line is different, and currently I am using the Yucca and Baobab line. This product line is available at Target and Walgreen's.

Giovanni is also great. I have used their shampoos in the past, with good results, but have since switched over to Shea Moisture shampoos. Currently, I am using their conditioners consistently. I have used them to deep condition, co-wash, and leave-in. They are also vegan with mainly organic ingredients. Their shampoos are sulfate-free, but can still dry my hair, which is why I use Shea Moisture shampoo now. 

Finally, Yes to Carrots. FYI, the name of the brand is Yes to Carrots, but their products (both skin and hair care) are made with carrots, cucumbers, tomatoes, blueberries, etc. It depends on what you are using and what for. I use their conditioners. The price is right. The ingredients are even better. I have never tried their shampoos, because I am afraid they would dry out my hair, but I might in the future. Their conditioners, YTCarrots and YTCucumbers, have amazing slip, even as a cone free conditioner. Their also very moisturizing.

Warning: I just read on the Queen of the 4's Blog that Giovanni has recently changed the ingredients in the Smooth as Silk Conditioner. I don't know if the same is true for the other products in that line, but the blog poster was not happy about the change. I hate when products that work great have formula make overs, with less than stellar results. If it aint broke,...you know the rest. Anyway, I have been thinking for some time of phasing out of using so many product lines, and do you now which product line I am most likely to use exclusively. I am sure you can guess by the above review...

Shea Moisture!

Also, I may start ordering Oyin Handmade again. I am loving their Hair Dew, which is my cream based moisturizer of choice. Morning when I don't wash and go, I spray my hair with a water based moisturizer, apply a light oil, then finish it off with the OH Hair Dew. I also miss using their juices, which were the best water-based moisturizers I used, even though others have worked well too. My favorite OH products are the juices, the Hair Dew, and I may try the whipped shea butter to use as a sealant and cream based moisturizer.