What Exactly Is Afro Hair?

I have a certain pet peeve I see in the natural hair world on occasion, and sometimes from people outside the natural hair care world to describe the texture of Black natural hair. The term is "afro hair." The first time I read this, I thought, What the heck? Afro is a hairstyle, not a hair type. Not to sound important, but I am absolutely correct. Afros are not only a mere hairstyle, but a recent hairstyle when looking at the evolution of African hair in the history of the world. Hair of our texture has been primarily seen in braids and other intricate styles. The afro came about in the sixties and seventies as a part of the Black Power/Black Is Beautiful Movement. Don't get me wrong, afros are cute. They look very powerful. But when people describe it as hair type, I want them to consider the following: What does naturally curly or tighly coily hair look like when washed? One thing is certain, it will not look like Angela Davis's hair in the sixties.

The thing about "afro hair" is that anytime you take a pick or other comb with relatively small teeth and run it through hair, all the curls and coils will be separated and you will create frizzy hair, which, when standing straight up from or in a circle/halo around the head, is what most would consider an afro. Another thing to realize is that afros are cute, but not the best style for naturals. The breakage that can result if one wears them exclusively on natural hair is far greater than if you were wearing twists and twist outs, especially if you pick out hair while dry. We know this is big no-no from the previous post. When I really examined my TWA after washing, I realized that I didn't have a naturally occurring afro. I had naturally occurring tight coils that are slightly visible in the picture above. (Please ignore my obnoxious laughing). Looser curlies and wavies have curls and coils that are much more visible to the eye.

In essence, don't use afro to describe the texture of natural hair. Do realize that afros can be damaging to the hair. The Natural Haven discusses this more in depth on her blog, with the link HERE. I plan to wear twists and other protective styles more. When wearing hari out, know that curls are meant to be in groups and not separated strand by strand. The curl strands clumped together protect each other and decrease a chance of breakage. If length is your goal, and it is one of mine, be careful not to pick out the hair too much. I recently used a pick to detangle my hair, but since have co-washed again to allow the curls to clump together again and better protect each other. I am back to only using the pick to lift my roots and not combing all the way through my hair.

Detangling: A Much Needed Part of the Natural Hair Care Regimen

I had a fear these last few months since my Big Chop of combing my hair. That may sound ludicrous, but many a natural knows the damage incorrect combing or brushing can do to the hair. I also was beginning to like the way my hair looked when I didn't pick my TWA out completely with the afro pick I bought shortly after my BC. My routine became to simply lift the roots after co-washing in the morning in order to maintain the natural curls that clumped together when I applied conditioner. What changed my mind and broke my fear?

When I finally decided to take down the one million (I exaggerate) mini-twists I put into my hair, I knew I needed some conditioner to really detangle. I had no idea just how tangled my hair was. I ended up spending more than a good thirty minutes detangling an almost medium sized afro, after initially miscalculating that it might take five minutes. I had to be very careful, and detangle while my hair was still loaded with Suave Naturals Tropical Coconut Conditioner. From tip to root, section by section, I combed with my metal pick (much like the one pictured above) and collected all my shed hairs on a washcloth. After finally picking out my hair completely and reassuring myself that I had shed very little hair for a week's worth of twists, I realized that I may have inadvertently added a new step to my hair regimen.

The thing about combing and brushing natural hair is that you have to do it right, or not do it at all. Seriously, if you don't have the patience needed to detangle naturally coily hair, consider locking and you'll never have to comb your hair ever again. The keys are as follows:

1. Slippery When Wet: Only comb hair when soaking wet and loaded with conditioner. So far I have detangled with the Suave Naturals Tropical Coconut Conditioner, which I later rinsed out, and the Giovanni Weightless Moisture Direct Leave-In, which I used as a leave-in. They both work great. Never, ever comb or brush hair while dry. This is a recipe for disaster, damage, and breakage.
2. Use the Right Tools: Aside from a good combing conditioner, use a good quality comb or brush to detangle hair. When I BC'd, I did not have the money to invest in a seamless comb, so I bought the next best thing I could find -- a metal pick, which has no seams in the teeth. I still plan to buy a seamless comb and pick, particularly the Cricket Ultraclean Big Time Comb from CurlMart.com. I have heard great things about the Denman brush, but plan on doing more research and attaining more length before making that plunge. Also make sure the teeth are spaced wide apart. Don't even think about putting a skinny tooth comb to your hair. Using the right tools is essential to hair growth/length retention.
3. Travel from Tip to Root: Always start from the ends (tips) of hair and work your way up patiently to the roots. If you feel pain or resistance, go further down to the roots and work up even more patiently. Divide hair in sections using hair clips. Detangling is a process, so do it right and your hair will thank you for it.
4. Monitor the shed hairs: I monitor the hairs that comb off in my pick to make sure I am not over shedding. Hair will shed, which is a natural part of a hair's life, but monitor to make sure you are not shedding more than normal. When looking at shed hairs after detangling, take into account the last time you combed or styled. I thought I had lost a lot of hair, until I realized that it had been a week since I detangled.

 Now that detangling is a natural part of my regimen, I plan to do so at least every two weeks. I also like getting rid of all those shed hairs, which used to comb off on my hands whenever I co-washed.

Oyin Handmade Preview

A good friend of mine and fellow natural diva Dee did me a favor by putting my TWA in thousands, or at least it seemed like thousands, little mini-twists on Monday. In a previous post, I have been sharing how I want to purchase some of the Oyin Handmade products. Dee has in the past let me smell some of her products. Monday she was kind enough to not only twist my hair with the OH Whipped Pudding, but also give me some of her unused OH Juices and Berries.

From the preview I have of the Oyin Handmade products, a coming purchase is just around the corner. I have decided to purchase from CurlMart.com, because I heard the shipping is better and I want to also purchase a CurlMart.com seamless comb. Aside from the seamless comb, I am going to purchase the OH Whipped Pudding, OH Honey Hemp Conditioner, and perhaps the OH Burnt Sugar Pomade.

I can say with confidence that the OH Whipped Pudding is a wonderful product that can be used on the hair and the body. It smells like chocolate, but is not too overpowering. My twists have lasted for a good week. Also, The OH Juices and Berries is great. I used it every morning to refresh twists that had been smushed by a satin scarf and wild sleeping. But the product I am excited about purchasing the most is the OH Honey Hemp Conditioner (pictured above). As a self proclaimed conditioner junkie, I am looking forward to having an all natural conditioner that can be used as a styler, leave-in conditioner, and deep conditioner.

As soon as I get my money right, I will be giving CurlMart.com a visit and purchasing my Oyin Homemade products, my seamless comb, and perhaps a micro fiber towel. I am tired of using paper towels, especially since it is not very green/eco-friendly.

Know Exactly What's In Your Hair and Beauty Products

I admit that I don't buy all natural beauty products, although I aspire to one day. But in the meantime, when I read an ingredient on a bottle that sounds like I should be a chemist to understand what it means and where it comes from, I often do use a certain resource to understand what I'm putting on my hair or on my body. Teri LaFlesh has a great Ingredients Dictionary on her website TightlyCurly.com. She even tells you whether the ingredient are Good or Okay to use or if you should Avoid or take Caution. I love that Teri did what people like me would never bother taking the time to do, and that is researching in detail all the complicated sounding ingredients in your beauty products.

Another great resource I plan to use is Paula Begoun's books, author of Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, which is in its 8th edition. The book goes into detail about the different ingredients used in products typically found in the product aisle. If you don't go 100% all-natural, at least know what purpose various ingredients serve in your beauty products before you use them.

Words of Wisdom from Marcus Garvey

"Don't remove the kinks from your hair. Remove them from your brain." 

-- Marcus Garvey (1887 - 1940) founder of the Back to Africa Movement

The above quote is just so powerful to me. My sister Miss Cee C and I were talking about how people don't seem to "get their mind right" before they go natural. They don't accept really coily hair as beautiful and/or they continue to put too much self worth in the texture and length of their hair. For hundreds of years, our people have continued to fry, dye, and lay to the side our hair in hopes of removing any type of kink, curl, or coil. But stop trying to change your hair, and work on changing your mind.

Starting Locs with Two Strand Twists

This method for starting locs is considered hand cultivated. This is also the way I started my locs and there are many benefits. Many know two strand twists as a common style among the natural hair community. I am rocking some right now, though not to start locs. But if kept in two strand twists, the hair will eventually lock up. The benefits of two strand twists for starting locs are the following:

• Will not unravel as easily as comb coils
• Can be washed and the scalp can be cleansed in the beginning stage of locing, though only very gently
• Very pretty when first put into hair, before they reach the "wild" phase when they start to loc
• Can be done at home or by a stylist, but very easy to do yourself
• Only products needed are a styling gel or locing gel (I recommend Jamaican Mango and Lime Locking products but you can also use a shea butter-essential oil mixture if you want)
• Forms very beautiful locs
• You can control the size of your locs, from medium to large. With this method I do not recommend locs that are too small, as they might snap or thin easily. 

Although you can start your locs with two strand twists, you cannot maintain/groom them with two strand twists. (How would you two-strand twist new growth). One way to maintain locs is with palm rolling, which will be covered in an upcoming post. 

Above is a picture of the beautiful Lauryn Hill with two strand twists that have been curled. 

Treat Your Hair Like a Cashmere Sweater

  

     If you have any idea just how expensive a cashmere sweater can be, you understand the meaning of the adage "treating your hair like a cashmere sweater." Cashmere is super soft and not to be roughed up. Think of your hair as the same way -- highly (in)valuable, supersoft and not to be roughed up in any way. Both Lorraine Massey and Teri LaFlesh, authors of Curly Girl and Curly Like Me, respectively, use the analogy of your hair as a cashmere sweater to give curly heads an idea of how to treat your hair. This applies when washing, styling, detangling, or in any way manipulating the hair. Post this in your bathroom or near your vanity area if you ever get impatient with your hair or get tempted to rake a comb through it, roughly towel dry, or any other kind of abuse not conducive to "cashmere hair."

Sunday is Fun Day for My Hair - Revised

Updated August 23, 2010 - I have edited below from the original post on the 22nd for the products I ended up using.

I have gotten my weekends miscalculated, because I thought I wasn't due for another deep conditioning treatment until next Sunday. Since this month had five Sundays, I am actually due for a shampoo and deep conditioning treatment this Sunday. At this rate, I will be having what I refer to as my Fun Day Sunday for Hair on the third Sunday of the month, at least until I encounter another five Sunday month. At any rate, I decided to post what I plan to do on this special fun day.

Actually, I have already started with the pre-poo treatment. I have a meeting to attend, after which I will shampoo and finish my hair for the day.

• Step 1: Pre-Poo Treatment with Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• Step 2: Shampoo with Giovanni 50:50 Balanced Hydrating-Clarifying Shampoo
• Step 3: Conditioner Rinse with Say Yes to Carrots Mud Conditioner
• Step 4: Deep Condition with Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Conditioner
• Step 5: Detangle with Giovanni Weightless Moisture Direct Leave-In Conditioner
• Step 6: Style with Oyin Handmade Whipped Pudding

After all was said and done, I applied the Giovanni Direct Leave-In and detangled (using a pick). My good friend Dee twisted my hair in very small two strand twists using the some of her Oyin Handmade Whipped Pudding. The Whipped Pudding smells like chocolate. The Aubrey Organics works great as a deep conditioner. All in all, it was a very successful Fun Day this Sunday (and Monday, since that is when I actually styled my hair).

Definitely plan on purchasing the Oyin Handmade Whipped Pudding (pictured above), Honey Hemp Conditioner, and Juices and Berries.

A Chemical by Any Other Name...

The natural hair community has grown steadily, as evidenced by the increasing number of YouTubers, bloggers, and other women you may know personally who have decided to embrace their natural texture, or so it seems. I say "or so it seems" because although many women have embraced their natural texture, I have found many women who are still not getting their minds right before big chopping or transitioning. It truly is more important what is on your head than what is on it.

In the natural hair world, there is a typing system for the texture or amount of curl someone's hair has. I don't mind the typing system, but a hierarchy has been created from them. Type 1 hair is straight. Type 2 hair is wavy. Type 3 hair is curly, and type 4 hair is coily (aka kinky or nappy). Each category has subcategories with letters to describe just how wavy, curly, or kinky hair is. For example, type 4b hair is slightly more coily than type 4a. For a more detailed description of the hair typing system, check out the link HERE.

The hierarchy I am referring to is the way that people seem to invariably embrace looser curl patterns (such as type 3 hair). You hear comments like, "You can go natural. You got that good hair." Or, "I couldn't be natural. It's not for me." Actually you could go natural, since it's NATURAL.

Also, many naturals suffer from what I call hair envy. They see someone else's texture, and become envious. They don't embrace their kinks, because they want curls or waves. Many have tried to remedy this hiair envy by being ambiguous with their natural journey. The following treatments are in no way natural, nor do they promote healthy hair:

• Texturizers
• Curl Enhancers
• Silkerners (Miss Jessie's service)
• Baking Soda Treatments
• Excess Heat
• Kiddie Perms

Anything that will make your curl pattern looser without the possibility of it reverting back to its original texture is not natural. There are other methods and things that can loosen the texture of your hair, but these methods are not as damaging to the hair (though some can lead to severe dryness). It does seem to me that people do these treatments because of the loosening effect it has on the curl, in addition to other "benefits", but since these results are not permanent, I don't place them with chemical treatments

• Henna Treatments (used to color and thicken hair, henna can also loosen the curl pattern)
• Cassia Treatments (used to add shine to dark hair and for its antifungal benefits for the scalp, cassia can loosen the hair texture, but not as much as henna)
• Bentonite Clay Hair Mask (used to clarify the hair, bentonite clay can "define" and loosen the curl pattern, but it is not permanent)

I say all this to warn you against being duped into applying a chemical to your hair (or excess heat) that damages the curl pattern and causes it to not revert back. A chemical by any other name is still a chemical. 

Above is a picture of actress Jennifer Freeman. Her hair is beautiful, but many would also consider her hair "better" than someone with type 4 hair as opposed to her type 3 curls. It is okay to draw hair inspiration from others, but remember to embrace your own natural texture and remember that healthy hair is good hair. 

So You Wanna Start Locing Your Hair? (Lock Down Post Series)

I spelled locing without the k on purpose, to refer to the act of styling hair in a certain way with the intention of locing. When you decide to loc your hair, there are some things you want to consider before deciding which way to start your locs. Here are things to consider:

1. How active is your lifestyle. Do you work out, swim, or engage in another physical activity?
2. What are your personal aesthetics? Do you like locs to be uniform, small, large, medium, and/or with tight roots? Do you prefer more "earthy" looking locs, with varying sizes? Do you mind the look of a lot of new growth?
3. How much are you willing to spend on your hair? Do you mind paying someone to start and groom/maintain your locs for you? Do you prefer to do them yourself? What are you willing to spend money on, as far as loc tools, locing gel, salon fees, et cetera?
4. What type of hair do you have? Is your curl pattern loose and more curly/wavy, or is it more coily and kinky?
5. How often do you want to wash your hair after you start your locs?

These questions are very important. I wish I had considered them before I started my locs. I might have started them the exact same way, but it still would have been interesting to know how diverse loc maintenance can be. For example, I did not know that locs could be maintained with a tool. Also note that just because you start your locs one way doesn't mean you can't later maintain them another way. 

With loc maintenance there are a few categories:

• Cultivated (aka Cultured) -- this way of starting locs means that you actively encourage your hair to loc a certain way. For example, you part the hair in sections to have uniform locs. You groom those sections in order to keep those individual locs from attaching to others. (I know from experience that this can happen if you don't groom locs for a long time). Most people find the results of this method more aesthetically appealing. 
• Organic (aka Uncultured) -- this way of starting locs means that you let your hair naturally loc by itself with little to no manipulation on your part. All hair will eventually loc if we never comb or detangle it in some way. This method allows hair to just do whatever it wants to do with little more than washing on your part. Many don't find the results of this method very aesthetic, but if you don't mind, this method does hold the appeal of being very low maintenance. 

Under the category of cultivated locs, there are two more subcategories, including maintaining locs with a tool or by hand. Both have its benefits. Remember as I said earlier, just because you start locs one way does not mean you cannot maintain them another way. Many people start their locs cultivated by hand, then maintain them with a tool. You can also start locs with a tool and later cultivate them by hand. 

In a future post, I will briefly talk about organic methods, but will mainly focus on maintaining locs with cultivated methods. 

Picture Above: Singer Goapele. She has since cut her hair. She was my inspiration to start my own locs, though I never got to that length. 

Note: Some consider the term uncultured locs offensive, but I just put them above so that people may know that cultivated methods are sometimes referred to as cultured, and organic methods are sometmies referred to as uncultured. 

Coming Soon...Lockdown Post Series

I feel a bit bad for just now getting to this post series, because a friend of mine requested this topic a long time ago. The post series will discuss the different ways to start locs (aka dreads or dreadlocks, but I prefer the term locs). There are indeed several ways to start locs, and my post series, entitled Lock Down, will focus on starting locs yourself. I myself had my locs started by a loctician (beautician who specializes in starting and grooming locs) who did a great job. I went to her throughout my four year loc journey, in addition to grooming them myself while I was away at school.

If you are considering locing your hair, you may choose to have them started by a loctician and then maintain them yourself. You may choose to both start and groom them yourself, or you may even choose to pay someone to both start and groom them on a regular basis. In the beginning, I had my loctician groom them every time I need my roots to be freshened up, but when I went away to college, I decided to learn to do it myself so that I wouldn't have to pay someone. I occasionally treated myself to a grooming by my loctician and only once did I pay to have another stylist groom them.

In the end, I cut my locs off not because I didn't like them. In fact, I loved them. I had them cut because I wanted a change/new beginning, and I wanted to experiment with free form natural hair. The above picture shows me with styled locs (and a full face of makeup). The headband is actually hiding roots that needed to be groomed. This picture will be a year old in December. In the future, I may start locs again, but in the meantime I am enjoying my TWA.

I am more than happy to share with you the different ways to start and maintain/groom your own locs.

Best of the Best: Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Conditioner

I recently purchased from Whole Foods the Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Conditioner. I have been feening for this product for some time now. I am not a big fan of ordering online, so when I was recenlty in Whole Foods buying groceries now that I'm back in school, I invariably took a stroll down the product line. If you are lucky enough to have a Whole Foods near you, take advantage. Their store is a haven of natural hair products for natural divas. They also carry the Giovanni, Kinky Curly, Jane Carter and many other lines for curly hair. Not to mention you can pick up some top quality essential oils while you're there, but I digress. Back to the Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Conditioner.

I have not yet tried this product, and won't very soon. This is because I plan to use it as a deep conditioner, not a co-washing or leave-in conditioner. I deep condition my hair once a month (or every four weeks) and am not due for another deep conditioning treatment until the last Sunday of this month. When I deep conditioner next time around, I plan to use a heat cap in combination with this conditioner. I am not a big fan of heat in any form with my hair, but that is mainly in terms of blow dryers, flat irons, and pressing combs. I think heat caps while deep conditioning will give it a better effect.

Although I have not tried the product yet, I still have good things to say, many good things. First of all, I am able to pronounce easily all the ingredients listed on the back of the bottle:

INGREDIENTS: Coconut Fatty Acid Cream Base, Organic Aloe Vera, Organic Shea Butter, Wheat Germ Oil, Organic Jojoba Oil, Organic Rosa Mosqueta Rose Hip Seed Oil; Extracts of Fennel, Hops, Balm Mint, Mistletoe, Camomile, Yarrow, Chrysanthemum, Angelica, Forsythia and Magnolia; Honeysuckle Oil, Carrot Oil, Aubrey's Preservative (Citrus Seed Extract, Vitamins A, C, and E).

All of these ingredients sound wonderful. Furthermore, the bottle boasts that this product was not tested on animals, that the container is biodegradable, not to mention that most of the ingredients are oraganic. And it smells great.

I called this post the Best of the Best because this conditioner was listed as one of the Best of the Best products in 2009 by NaturallyCurly.com. They also mention another product I use, Herbal Essences Hello Hydration Conditioner. It is also worth mentioning that this conditioner has a shampoo of the same name, Honeysuckle Rose, that is suited specifically for Dry, Brittle Hair. I did not buy the shampoo because I use Giovanni shampoos with coco betaine to clairfy the cones that I use on my hair. Speaking of silicones, the Aubrey Oranics HSR conditioner is cone free.

This conditioner is very very thick. The bottle says to shake it up before use, but when I shook it up, it didn't seem to move. It is probably so thick because the first ingredient is not water, like most conditioners, but coconut fatty acid cream base, which is another reason why I plan to use this conditioner for deep conditioning. That and the fact that this conditioner is considered expensive in my opinion. It cost a little more than $10 a bottle. So I plan to let this bottle last me for some time now. I encourage you to check out the Aubrey Organics website HERE. I see a lot of great products I want to try, including their 100% Organic Jojobal Oil.

20 Items or Less...Castor Oil

Sorry for the extended absence, but here we go. Continuing in my 20 Beauty Items or Less, this post will feature castor oil. Many naturals use castor oil on their hair. When I hear castor oil, it conjures up tales of generations past forcing it down their children's throat in order to clean them out. Also, I know castor oil is used in the Oil Cleansing Method. I bought my castor oil for the OCM, which I have yet to try. It was at CVS in the laxative section. Castor oil has a big reputation for being used as a laxative, and I have heard that it can be used to induce labor. You might want to call it a miracle plant source, because the uses are endless.

Castor oil comes from the castor bean/seed plant. The USDA recognizes castor oil as safe for over the counter use as a laxative, but that it just one of the many uses. Besides, its effectiveness as a laxative comes at a price. Every person I have heard of who took castor oil orally says it was the most disgusting taste they ever experienced.  In fact, my sister ran from my mother when she tried to give her castor oil as a child. Here is a list of the uses of castor oil:

• To treat styes around the eyes
• To help with arthritis or joint pain
• To help in the treatment of acne or breakout
• Essential ingredient in the Oil Cleansing Method
• To relieve constipation
• To induce labor (consult a doctor before doing so)
• To reduce the appearance of wrinkles

When it comes to hair, the uses of castor oil are just as boundless. Castor oil has long been touted as a natural hair growth aide, also helping in the growth and thickening of thinning hair. It adds moisture to dry and brittle hair, lubricating the strands. Castor oil comes in various grades, from the purest form to the filtered, odorless form. I would imagine that the purest form would be what adds the most benefits to the hair and skin. A hair product that is in my sister Miss Cee C's regimen is Hollywood Beauty Castor Oil. It is petroleum free, mineral oil free, and a great product if you want to have the feeling of a "grease" for the hair and scalp without the damaging effects of bad ingredients.

A source for unrefined castor oil is Jamaican Black Castor Oil. I plan to add this to my regimen. The bottle I bought is not unrefined, so I plan to buy another. The uses are endless. I don't plan on taking it orally (not anytime soon at least), and I would recommend you do extensive research and/or talk to a doctor before doing taking internally. Castor oil is truly the miracle source.

20 Beauty Items or Less (updated list):
1. Dr. Bronner's Pure Castile Soap - liquid form
2. Shea Butter - 100% raw, unrefined, and fair trade
3. Essential Oils and Oil Blends -- organic and/or cold-pressed
4. Witch Hazel
5. Bentonite Clay
6. Castor Oil, unrefined

Contemplating...Oyin Handmade

One of my best friends and natural hair inspirations Dee swears by a certain line of natural hair products that many others in the natural hair care community use and vouch for...Oyin Handmade. She even let me see and smell her products for myself. I loved the smells. I really loved the smells. Very earthy. I also love that their products are all natural with ingredients you can pronounce. The company is owned and operated by a couple who named the compmany Oyin after the Yoruba word for honey. I have heard only good things about their products, which seem to be especially formulated for type 4 (very curly/coily) hair. The moisturizing qualities have been touted by many, and, best of all, a lot of their products are great for not just the hair, but the body as well. I must confess. Often I will go to their website and dream of the products I will purchase.

The only consistently negative thing I hear about their products is the slow shipping. Unless you live in the Baltimore, Maryland area where their store is located, this could be an annoying issue for you. Another solution is to purchase their products from CurlMart.com, which has faster shipping. I will try to order their product before the year is out and do a review of them. I am the type of person who prefers buying things in drugstores, cheaper and instant gratification. But for Oyin Handmade, I am willing to make an exception. Even though my motto is cheap and/or homemade when it comes to products, sometimes I get tired of being a mixstress and just want to buy something already made, that is all natural and top quality.

Another thing about buying Oyin Handmade is that because their products are all natural (which I love), they have a shorter shelf life than other commercial products (which I don't love). My Herbal Essences will keep forever, but a lot of Oyin Handmade products are suggested to be used within six months. But if they are as great as people say, I might be more than willing to use it all up in six months.

Here is my Oyin Handmade wishlist:
1. Juices and Berries (pictured above)
2. Burnt Sugar Pomade
3. Whipped Pudding
4. Honey Hemp Conditioner

Check This Out..."Curly Like Me" Method

After buying the book Curly Like Me by Teri LaFlesh, I have been trying to get my sister to use regular conditioner as a leave-in and styling agent as Teri suggests. She finally gave it a try, hesitantly of course, and she loved the results. I was very faithful that this conditioner as styling agent (in place of gel) would work great. Mainly, I wanted it to work, because I know that most gels for styling can be very drying to the hair and lead to a crunchy texture. I had even decided that leave-in conditioners was a myth. Well, I don't think that anymore. Now, I just think that what is usually advertised as a leave-in can leave the hair sticky and crunchy and what is advertised as a non-leave-in can be used as leave-in/styling conditioner. My sister has a lot to say about how much she loved using Teri's Curly Like Me method, also known as her Tightly Curly method. Instead of being redundant, I suggest you check out for yourself what she had to say. The link can be found HERE.

Below is a picture of my sister, Miss Cee C, after she used Herbal Essences Hello Hydration as a co-wash and Suave Naturals Tropical Coconut as a leave-in and styler for her twist out. Beautiful...

20 Items or Less...Bentonite Clay

Have I ever used Bentonite clay? No. Do I plan to make it a regular part of my regimen? Maybe. Does it deserve a spot on the 20 Items or Less Beauty Products list? Yes, definitely. I don't mind recommending Bentonite clay because I have read so many great things from various natural sisters in the natural hair cyber community, including Curly Nikki and BlackOnyx77 (YouTube). Furthermore, Bentonite clay is great for the simple fact that it can be used for multiple purposes, namely hair care, skin care, body care (external) and internal healing of the body.

This information about Bentonite clay I found at AnitaGrant.com, vendor of natural beauty products. Bentonite is found all over the globe but the highest deposits are found in the Great Plains of North America and the mountains of Italy. It is derived from the deposits of weathered volcanic ash. Bentonite contains over 70 naturally occurring trace minerals:

Silica -- 61.4% (required for strong healthy hair growth and skin tissue regeneration)
Aluminum -- 18.1%
Iron -- 3.5%
Sodium -- 2.3%
Magnesium -- 1.7%
Calcium -- 0.04%
Titanium -- 0.02%
Potassium -- 0.01%
Moisture -- 7.8%
pH -- 8.3 to 9.1

Bentonite clay draws impurities from the skin, tightens the pores, cleanses the scalp, and removes excess build-up from the hair. I have even heard of some natural divas using it in place of shampoo, because of its cleansing/clarifying benefits. It can also be used on oily or combination skin to remove dirt and bacteria and shrink pores. (Oily skin is more prone to larger pores and breakouts). If you have the time and enough clay, you can also use it as a body wrap to remove impurities and wash away dead skin cells. Lastly, you can use it as a internal supplement to detox the body. I have found differing suggestions, so I encourage you to do extensive research before taking Bentonite internally. If you don't like the idea of eating clay, the clay can be encapsulated (buy capsules from health stores) and taken as a pill.

Special Note: Bentonite clay has been known to stretch the hair (loosening the curls, coils, and kinks of natural divas) and this may be a pro or con, depending on what you are looking for. These natural divas did say that hair will eventually revert back to its original texture. Bentonite clay used in excess can lead to dry hair. If you like the results, don't go crazy with the number of applications. You may also mix it with organic coconut milk or an herbal infusion to lessen the chance of dry tresses. If you use it in place of shampoo, which I don't see why you couldn't, do it only as often as you would shampoo the hair (1 to 2 times per month). Use conditioner to rinse the clay. The clay should not be allowed to dry on the hair, instead use a plastic baggie over hair. (This is according to Curly Nikki).

Supplemental Information on Bentonite Clay:
Curly Nikki on Bentonite Clay
BlackOnyx77 Bentonite Clay Experience (YouTube)
Anita Grant on Bentonite Clay

20 Items or Less Beauty Products (updated list):
1. Dr. Bronner's Pure Castile Soap - liquid form
2. Shea Butter - 100% raw, unrefined, and fair trade
3. Essential Oils and Oil Blends -- organic and/or cold-pressed
4. Witch Hazel
5. Bentonite Clay

Is Trimming Your Hair Necessary?

Disclaimer: My personal opinion about hair trimming. You may want to do more of your own research to determine for yourself if trimming is necessary.

On of the one hand, we have all read or heard the importance of getting our hair trimmed. That regular trimming actually increases growth and eliminates the dreaded feature of split ends is enough incentive to make regular trimming a part of anyone's regimen. On the other hand and after recent research and reading the opinions of other natural divas, I have to ask the question, "Is trimming necessary, optional, or bad?"

The primary point of regular trims is to cut away damaged ends. But if you are like me, you may wonder, "Why have damaged hair/ends in the first place?" If one is regularly using chemicals and heat, split ends and damaged ends are most definitely inevitable. Why not prevent split ends in the first place? This can be done by never applying heat or chemicals to the hair, wearing protective styles, always covering hair at night, and sealing ends with shea butter and/or hair oils. So in this sense, trimming is not necessary. If you have no intentions of creating damaged ends, then you have no reason to trim. The only time when trimming is absolutely necessary is when hair ends are damaged. For example, if you want to go natural, you have to trim your relaxed ends (aka Big Chop) in order to have only natural hair). Another example, if heat damage has caused ends or even most of your hair to not revert back to its naturally curly texture, trimming is necessary.

Another reason to regularly trim hair may be to keep hair at a certain length. If you are doing everything right, your hair growth and length retention may be so that you have to regularly trim hair to keep it at a certain length, whether that be TWA or a curly bob. But that would make trimming hair more optional than necessary. You may or may not want to retain a certain length and ensure your hair does not grow beyond a certain point. But remember, your hair naturally sheds, ensuring that you most likely won't look like Rapunzel, even if you take great care of your hair and never trim it. Your hair would and should grow long. If that's what you are looking for, great. Just take of your hair, and length will follow. Teri LaFlesh of TightlyCurly.com and author of Curly Like Me claims she has not trimmed her hair in more than ten years, and her hair looks more than healthy to me.

Now that we know that trimming is more necessary than optional, the question becomes, "Can trimming ever be bad for your hair and/or hair goals?" In a word, yes, and here are some reasons why. If your hair goal is length, but you are trimming more hair than you grow, it may seem you are not growing hair at all. In actuality, you are cutting off whatever length you may acquire every time you trim. Another way trimming can be bad depends of how you do it. I have heard numerous times that natural divas went to get their hair trimmed at a salon and was told that it was a prerequisite to straighten their hair in order to see the split ends. Straightening can be done by either blow out, press, or flat iron. All have the potential to impart permanent heat damage on the hair. If you are trimming split ends but first straightening hair with heat, you may be causing more split ends and damaged hair than you eliminate. For the superstitious and astrologically minded, there are certain times of the lunar cycle when cutting hair may retard growth, just as there are certain times when cutting hair may encourage growth.

Another thing to remember when contemplating trimming hair is that curly hair is much more forgiving with split ends than straight hair. This means that split ends are hardly, if at all, visible on extremely curly hair. Why else would stylists tell curly haired clients that they have to straighten their hair before trimming it in order to see the split ends? If you have a few split ends and never intend to wear your hair straight, split ends that can't be seen anyway are not much of an issue. Also, I have seen that cutting hair in a blunt shape can lead to hair being unable to hold certain styles, specifically two strand twists. The blunt ends just don't seem to wrap around each other, whereas split or uneven ends hold better.

I hope I have not left you more confused about trimming than before. My main objective was to shed light on the fact that trimming is not a necessary part of the hair regimen, at least not in my opinion. Rather than trimming hair, take care of the hair you have and prevent split and damaged ends by eliminating both heat and chemicals. Determine for yourself if trimming needs to be part of your regimen and act accordingly. If you do decide that trimming is necessary, research how to trim your own hair or at least get a cosmetologist with experience trimming extremely curly hair.

The picture above is my length as of three months. I have about an inch of growth since my Big Chop on May 7, 2010. That is a very rough estimate, as I have not stretched my hair to make sure. I see no signs of split ends, and therefore have determined that regular trims will not be part of my regimen. Of course, this could very easily change.

Words of Wisdom

I have in a post post mentioned the book Food Rules: An Eater's Manual by Michael Pollan and suggested that everyone write their own food rules, and maybe even hair rules. I myself am compiling a list, and I decided for the first rule, I am going to stick to the one that Pollan used to sum up the premise of his book. I like this rule because it should apply to everyone, whether your dietary guidelines. It allows room to self-explanation. The basic premise of Food Rules is the following:

Eat food. Mostly plants. Not too much.

This rule is good for adapting to your own lifestyle because it presents three key questions that you have to answer using your own judgment.

1. What is food?
2. How much is "mostly" when trying to eat "mostly" plants?
3. How much is "not too much"?

The first question will be an eye opener once you really learn what food is and where it comes from. For example, I may make it my definition that food must grow from the ground. This is the caveat of a very strict vegetarian. Another person may say, "Food is whatever I can imagine in its whole form." If you read the list of ingredients on a box of Oreos or other junk foods, you might recognize ingredients you cannot even pronounce. Would you consider this food? Can food be something you cannot even pronounce. Another definition of food may be whatever is edible. I suggest you be more rigid with your definition however. Junk food is edible, but Pollan considers most of factory produced food we eat not food at all, but instead "edible food like substances." I agree. Here is my personal definition of food.

Food is something that can be imagined in its whole form. It has ingredients that I can pronounce and ingredients where I know exactly where it comes from. Food [according to my dietary guidelines] never had a face, never had a heart, and never had a pulse. It doesn't poison me or make me sick. It nourishes and heals my body.

In an upcoming post, I will answer the question: How much do I mean by "most plants"?

Above is a picture of another book my Pollan, In Defense of Food. I haven't read it, but I am sure it is good and quite informative. You should check it out.

20 Items or Less...Witch Hazel

Don't judge me, but most of the information below I found from Wikipedia.org, and other sources. The information is found from the Witch Hazel (astringent) page, not the Witch Hazel page. The latter focuses more on the plant. The kind of witch hazel you would buy at the health food store or even drug store is primarily used as an astringent for the skin. Because of its inflammatory properties, witch hazel is great for treating pimples, breakouts, and acne in general. Rather than using alcohol based astringents, which can over dry the skin and cause more breakout, use witch hazel. It will disinfect and remove excess oils and bacteria.

I have a friend, Raphie, who loves witch hazel and has sworn by it since our first year in college. I gave her a call and asked her what she used it for. In addition to using it as an astringent, she uses it to cool her face in hot weather. Great for summer months, witch hazel can also be used to sooth sunburn, insect bites, and contact with poison ivy. Witch hazel contains tannins, but the kind found in drugstore is most likely distilled and contains no tannins.

As great as it is, I do remember hating the smell of witch hazel. It is very strong and hard to describe. While I was at the health food store, Earth Fare to be specific, I saw scented witch hazel, including rose water and cucumber. Also, you can purchase some scented essential oils and add a few drops to a bottle of witch hazel to give it a pleasant scent. Witch hazel is mainly used on the skin and body and is a great addition to your medicine cabinet. But I will give a few suggestions for hair:

• Apply it to the hair line after styling hair with products, especially those that contain oils. This way the product won't cause breakouts on your skin if you have sensitive or acne prone skin. 
• Use it to cleanse the scalp if you are growing locs and are not washing your hair as much. Also, if you have twists or mini-twists that you want to keep for a long (a week or more) you can cleanse the scalp before you shampoo or co-wash again so you don't feel you have a dirty scalp. 

I plan to go out and buy my witch hazel soon. I think I will go with the cucumber scent, or maybe the rose, or both. : ). The brand of witch hazel that carries it in many different scents is Thayers. Be sure to read the ingredients. They don't put any bad products in their witch hazel, but read them to be sure of what you are putting on your skin. If you want pure witch hazel, go with their Original brand.

Updated list of 20 Items or Less Beauty Products
1. Dr. Bronner's Pure Castile Soap - liquid form
2. Shea Butter, 100% raw unrefined fair trade
3. Essential Oils and Oil Blends
4. Witch Hazel

Check This Out...

One of my best friends made it to CurlyNikki.com as a natural bride. She was/is beautiful and an inspiration to natural divas who might be pressured to wear their hair straight on their wedding day. I was in the wedding, so I can vouch that she was even more beautiful in person. The link to her story is found HERE.