Most commercial shampoos are sold at comparatively "economical" prices, but we pay the ultimate price when the harmful ingredients found in these shampoos harm our curly/coily tresses. The primary harmful ingredient found in most commercial shampoos that cause them to damage our hair are known as sulfates, including ammonium laureth sulfate (ALS), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), and any other confusing sounding chemical ending in sulfate.
What makes these ingredients so bad for the hair is that they are, in essence, detergents and harsh chemicals that saponify and create rich lathers which, although pretty to the eyes, are damaging to the hair. Simply put, shampoo is used to clean the hair, but sulfates go above and beyond cleaning the hair, and not in a good way. They strip the hair of its natural oils, causing the hair and scalp to become overly dry and leading to more frizz, dryness, and breakage. Natural curls and coils are already more likely to be dry. Shampooing these curls/coils results in more harm.
To combat the negative effect of using sulfate-ridden shampoos, simply purchase and use sulfate-free (ALS-free and SLS-free) shampoos. These shampoos may be a bit more expensive, but what price are you willing to pay -- the one on the bottle or the one on your strands. You can still find brands that will create luxurious suds if they are what you need to convince yourself that your hair is being cleaned. Be ensured, however, that later does not determine how well your hair is being cleaned. Here are some suggestions for sulfate-free shampoo brands.
Giovanni Cosmetics features an Organic hair care line that is completely sulfate free and can be found at a local Target or other department stores. The link for the line can be found here.
I personally recommend the Giovanni line because both I and my older sister Miss Cee C. use shampoos from their line specifically for our type 4 coils (Giovanni Smooth as Silk Shampoo is great for dry hair). The results have been very good. Oyin Handmade makes a Grand Poo Bar that I plan to check out. I hear great things about all their products.
Another hair care technique that can be practiced to avoid the harmful effects of sulfate is a technique known as conditioner washing (or co-washing for short). Co-washing, which I myself practice, is a great way to cleanse the scalp and hair without stripping strands of their natural oils and overdrying tresses in the process.
It is not just what you do, but how you do it that can lead to certain results. This holds true for shampooing/cleansing hair as well. I will take the time to briefly list the do's and don't's of proper hair cleansing/shampooing.
Hair Cleansing Do's and Don'ts
Do focus on the scalp. Suds and product will travel down the tresses and cleanse the hair.
Do use a sulfate free shampoo to avoid the harsh results of sulfate detergents that strip the hair.
Do co-wash with a good quality conditioner since it will make your hair just as clean as if you had used shampoo without the drying effects.
Do not pile hair on top of your head like they do in the commercials. It may look cute, but it leads to severe tangling.
Do dry hair with micro-fiber materials rather than a towel that can cause more frizz, tangles and damage. Great micro-fiber materials include paper towels, old t-shirts, and , micro-fiber towels.
Do not vigorously rub the hair with whatever you use to dry it. Instead, blot dry the hair to remove excess moisture.
Do forget the way you may have seen people shampoo and dry their hair on TV or the way other people cleanse their hair.
Do learn the better way to do things in order to have optimal curls/coils.
